Whether it’s a ’71 Hemi ‘Cuda or a Gullwing Mercedes that you’re drooling over at a car show, it’s only natural to lust after a similar caliber of restoration for your own project car. Unfortunately, a concourse-quality restoration is simply out of the budget for most car enthusiasts. Even so, not every vehicle has to be restored to like-new condition. A partial restoration may be just thing for someone interested in having a functional and drivable vehicle, but without all of the bells and whistles of a complete restoration. This can have you on the road in your favorite classic for just a fraction of the cost.

Partial restorations can encompass many things. A fancy new paint job with all new trim is ill-advised if your car cannot be driven because of a faulty braking system. If you want to drive your classic, restoring the core mechanical systems may be the best place to start. Making sure the vehicle is safe and road worthy should always be the top priority. This includes the brakes, suspension, and wiring. Likewise, in order for a vehicle to operate properly on the road, the fuel system needs to be free of leaks and debris. A fuel system that is dirty and leaking will result in poor performance and can be a potential fire hazard. Classic car engines can be fairly resilient, so a basic tune up along with fuel and oil treatments can bring an engine back to life.  

If the mechanical items on your car are already in good condition, a new paint job can constitute a partial restoration as well. If the body damage is on your vehicle is only minor, basic body and paint restoration might not require completely dismantling you vehicle. In most cases, the paint will need to be stripped, but if the door jambs and other painted areas are in good shape it may not be necessary to strip or even repaint those areas. Always remember that when stripping a vehicle, be aware of the underlying problems that may be hidden underneath the paint. This is why we want to strip the cars before we paint. Painting over old paint and body work will only cause future problems.

For cars with solid mechanicals and sheetmetal, an interior restoration is a great way to enhance the comfort of your project. Your car will still roll down the road with old carpet, seat covers and a falling headliner, but will not be as pleasant to ride around in. Replacing only what is necessary is always a possibility. If you have just a small tear in a single panel on the seats, this panel can be replaced without replacing the entire cover. Headliners, door panels, and the carpet can also be replaced in sections as well.   

Although partially restoring you vehicle can be a great way to get your classic back on the road, only repairing what is needed will be an ongoing process. Just like a new car, a classic needs maintenance and attention. Another thing to consider is the additional cost of going back to fix a problem that could have been prevented by completely overhauling any give part or system on your car. Remember a vehicle can be restored to fit your needs, and our intimate goal is give our customers what they are looking for.

A chrome widget is a chrome widget, right? Wrong! Many of our customers refer to all of the shiny parts on their vehicle as chrome. In truth, real chrome represents only a fraction of the shiny parts. Knowing what parts are actually chrome, and what parts are shiny widgets that just look like chrome, will help you get a better handle on the true costs of chrome restoration.  

Although chrome is a term that’s thrown around a lot when referring to trim and bumpers, on most vehicles the trim is usually made from stainless steel or anodized aluminum. Items that are usually chrome include the bumpers, door handles, emblems, taillight and head light bezels, and mirrors. Chrome can add an enormous amount to your final costs, so be prepared. Door handles can cost $85-$125 to re-chrome, and bumpers run anywhere from $300 - $1,000. Pricing always depends on prior condition before re-chroming work can begin. Pot metal or rusted pieces can take many hours of labor to make into chrome-worthy piece, and afterwards, they still might not be 100-percent flawless. Plastic can also be chromed by specialized shops, and pricing is about the same as chroming metal.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel can be one of the biggest difference makers in cost during a classic car restoration project. Most of the window trim, wheel opening moldings, belt line moldings, and drip rail moldings are usually stainless. Stainless is very forgiving when it comes to polishing and straightening. A skilled polisher can save just about anything as long as it’s not ripped or punctured. Many polishers charge by the foot and the price goes up according to width.

Anodized Aluminum

Anodized aluminum is simply polished aluminum with an anodized coating. It’s luster means that it’s yet another material that’s commonly mistaken for stainless steel. Old anodized aluminum can usually be identified by chalkiness or by whitish-colored scratches. Anodized aluminum is commonly used in grilles, headlight surrounds, body side moldings, aftermarket wheel openings, aftermarket rocker moldings, and in some dash trim. Anodized aluminum can be straightened and polished, but comes at a cost. In order to polish anodized aluminum, the anodized coating needs to be stripped off. Not all polishers will strip the coating properly. The removal of the anodized coating makes the aluminum more susceptible to tarnishing a fading.  Stripped anodized aluminum needs constant waxing to keep its show quality shine, and will eventually need to be re-polished. The re-anodizing of the stripped moldings can be accomplished, but will come at a high cost and it can be hard to find a qualified person to do the work.

Other types of material that can be chromed are brass and copper. These materials are more common on vehicles built before 1960. Black chrome is another option that is available for custom options. Many other types of material can be polished or chromed and a quality chrome shop will recommend the best options for your parts.

Without a doubt, the economic downturn has taken its toll on musclecar values. If you think that means that it's a bad time to buy a musclecar, then think again. The truth is that what the upper echelon of super-rare musclecars may have taken a big hit, and original '71 Hemi 'Cudas are no longer selling for $2 million, many musclecars are still pulling in well over six-figures. In fact, many of these models have yet to peak.

Apparently, we're on the only ones who think so. Check out this interesting article we came across that lists 10 musclecars that are still brining home the bacon. Among them are the '70 Olds 442 W-30, the '70 Buick GSX Stage 1, and the '69 Boss 429 Mustang  

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/10-classic-american-muscle-cars-153459794.html?page=1

Pro Touring muscle cars are a dime a dozen, but how about a Pro Touring classic Ford truck? As much fun as it is to restore muscle cars, it's nice to mix things up a bit from time to time. Precision Restorations recently took on a cool 1963 Ford F100 project truck. As the Pro Touring guys found out a long time ago, yesterday's chassis, suspension, and brake technology is no match for today's modern cars and trucks. The beauty of a body-on-frame truck is that with a little (or a lot) of creativity and patience, you can swap a modern chassis beneath an old worn-out classic truck, which is exactly what we're doing to this '63 F100. 

The project is still in its very early stages. We started by pulling the old F100 cab and bed off its  factory frame, then mocked them up on the 2007 F150 frame. It looks like we're going to be shortening the new frame by quite a bit. Stay tuned for regular updates. We definitely have our work cut out for us with this project, but with the tremendous benefits in ride, handling, and braking the new frame promises to offer, it will be well work the effort.

Over the last several months, the Precision Restorations crew has been hard at work restoring Chevy High Performance magazine's second-gen Camaro project car. Since it's arrival last fall, Project F73 has been completely disassembled and stripped down to bare metal. Bye bye poo brown paint, and hello Prowler Orange! Last week, we laid down the first coat of primer, and began straightening out the body lines. F73 is just about ready to hit the paint booth, but in the mean time, check out this cool rendering (above) that designer Eric Black (www.eblackdesign.com) whipped up. 

To recap, Project F73 is being transformed from a worn-out stock musclecar into the ultimate Pro Touring machine. Currently under the hood is a hot 500hp small-block, which will eventually get replaced with a 769hp supercharged LS3. For confortable freeway crusing, the stock slushbox has been replaced with a Tremec TKO600 five-speed manual trans, which sends power back to a Moser 9-inch rearend.

Hanging with late-model Covettes and Vipers on the road course calls for some serious suspension hardware. To accomplish this, F73 has been fitted with a Detroit Speed and Engineering four-link rear suspension along with a DSE front subframe assembly that includes new tubular control arms, C6 Corvette spindles, and adjustable coilovers. Sticking it all to the pavement are 18-inch Rushforth Livewire wheels wrappe din massive 335/35-18 BFGoodrich KDW tires.

As you can see, this Fastback has come a long way over the past several months.

In recent months, companies like Holley, Edelbrock, Fast, and MSD have each released self-tuning EFI systems. These slick systems bolt in place of a standard 4150-style carburetor, and literally tune themselves. All you have to do is install a high-pressure fuel pump, hook up a few wires, enters a few basic engine parameters into a hand-held tuner, then turn the key. In the past, the biggest drawbacks of an EFI system were cost and complexity, but the sub-$2,000 price and self-tuning ability of these new systems make upgrading to EFI more appealing than ever before.  

Among the major benefits of a fuel injection system is its superior drivability, fuel mileage, idle quality, and cold-starting ability compared to a carburetor.  EFI systems constantly monitor engine load and ambient air conditions, and consequently, adapt to variations in weather conditions and altitude. This means less tuning. Even though a carburetor can be adjusted to run sufficiently, air pressure and weather changes can affect the performance of you engine. Likewise, starting your fuel injected engine is made much easier, as a carburetor uses a manual, vacuum, or electrically controlled choke to mechanically restrict air flow. On the other hand, a fuel injection system automatically adjusts for the proper air/fuel mixture depending on environmental conditions.

Traditionally, one downfall of a fuel injection system has been complicated installation procedures, but manufacturers have taken great strides to take this hurdle out of the equation. Let’s take, for instance, GM Performance Part’s Ram Jet 350 EFI crate motor. This system is can be bought as a complete setup that includes the wiring harness and computer. To simplify the installation process, all wires are pre-terminated and labeled for their specific location. All that’s left to wire up is the ignition wire, 12v power supply, and the ground. While that’s simple enough, what can be challenging at times is converting the gauges in an older vehicle to work with an EFI system. Finding the proper ports for sending units can usually be done, but when running certain accessories the ports that are available may be limited.

The new crop of self-learning EFI systems eliminate these challenges by vastly simplifying how the computer interfaces with the engine. The fuel injectors, fuel rails, manifold pressure sensor, and idle air control valve are all integrated into the throttle-body assembly, so all you have to do is bolt it to the manifold and you’re good to go. All these sensors plug directly into the EFI computer, and don’t interface at all with the existing gauges, drastically simplifying the installation process. One caveat is that self-learning EFI systems to require installing a wide-band oxygen sensor into the exhaust system, but this is a simple task that only takes 20 minutes or so to pull off, and the result is ultra precise control over the air/fuel mixture.

Each of these systems includes a hand-held controller that connects to the computer. Once installed, all you have to do is enter some basic engine information such as the displacement, target idle rpm and rev limit, and camshaft size. Using that information, the computer generates a baseline engine tune, and once the car is on the road, it uses feedback from the oxygen sensor and MAP sensor to tune the engine automatically on-the-fly. The starting price of these systems is roughly $2,000, which is still more than twice the price of a carburetor, but for many hot rodders the benefits are well worth the price of admission.   

Sandblasting is one of the most effective to remove rust from a classic car restoration project.  Despite its effective, however, there are several potential drawbacks to keep in mind. The sandblasting process can be extremely aggressive, so before you start blasting away, make sure you are prepared for the consequences. As such, it’s imperative to make sure to disassemble each and every part that unbolt, otherwise you risk destroying any moldings or trim pieces that you never intended on stripping in the first place.

Furthermore, remember that sand will find its way into every nook and cranny of the car, so be sure to remove all the glass and window tracks inside the doors and quarter-panels. Sand can also makes its way into the grease in the window tracks and regulators and cause them to grind. Suspension and drivetrain parts—such as the balljoints, tie rods, brakes, rearends, and transmissions—can be adversely affected as well.  

To minimize the potential drawbacks of sandblasting, taking a few simple precautions goes a long way. If you have extremely thick paint, it’s a good idea to machine strip before you try to blast all of the paint off from the beginning. Blasting will heat the panel up, which will cause a large flat area to warp. Warpage from sandblasting can ruin a panel beyond use. Blasting hoods, roofs, deck lids, and large flat areas have the most potential for warping. Consequently, machine stripping, baking soda blasting or acid dipping are often better options for these types of panels. 

Although sandblasting is effective, you must be prepared for hidden problems it may reveal. Just when you think you have a solid project car, put it up on a rotisserie and blast the entire thing, sandblasting can reveal that you have created a lot more work for yourself. Sandblasting can remove dirt, rust and paint so what you thought was just a surface rust might actually be riddled with pinholes. The sand will blast right though the weaker points of the metal and create multiple small holes. This can happen from one end of the car to the other, so be prepared to find a lot more work after a car has been blasted completely.

To sum it all up, there are many aspects of sandblasting an entire car, and these are only just a few of them. Sandblasting will remove the rust you can see, but it can also cause a lot more work. This is a double edged sword as it may cost you more money and time, but can add to the durability of your restoration since sandblasting will help you discover problems and fix them. It will also allow you to start from scratch using higher quality materials than what was used originally.

It seems inconceivable that big-block powered Camaros, ‘Cudas, and Mustangs once left the factory with drum brakes. Since every other car on the road also had drum brakes, however, it really wasn’t that big of a deal. That’s not the case anymore since a modern minivans or SUVs are equipped with much more powerful brakes that yesteryear’s performance cars. That means anytime there’s any late-model vehicle in front of your classic, you’re at risk of getting out-stopped in an ugly, metal-crunching  kind of way. As such, disc brake conversions have become very popular in recent years. When swapping out the drum brakes on your classic car for a set of discs, it pays to do your homework.

Disc brake conversion kits are available for just about any type of car imaginable. The aftermarket is loaded with options for most musclecars, and kits are even available for cars like classic Porches and Jaguars through specialty vendors. It all sounds very promising, but the overall health of your brake system must be taken into account before turning a wrench. While disc brakes provide more even stopping power, is your master cylinder isn’t up to the task of supplying them with adequate pressure, they will not be as effective as possible.

Likewise, when replacing you drum brakes, make sure you have carefully inspected the condition of your current steel brake lines. Look for crushed, pinched, rusty or corroded metal lines. These types of lines can be a liability, as they are more prone to failure. Also check the rubber hoses going from the frame to wheels, and fomr the frame to the rearend housing. Most brake kits come with new rubber lines since discs often require a different-length line.

Many older brake systems have a single master cylinder, but it’s often worthwhile to upgrade to a dual-master system when upgrading to discs. This will take some extra plumbing in the system, but will be well worth the improvements in safety and efficiency. To make the process even easier, the aftermarket offers brake pedal and master cylinder adapters that will make it possible to use a Mustang- or Corvette-style master cylinder.

Don’t forget that disc brakes may also require larger-diameter wheels for caliper clearance.  Many cars equipped with drum brakes came with 14-inch wheels from the factory, which in most cases will not clear the calipers in a disc brake system. Furthermore, disc brakes may also require disassembling some of the front suspension components. Consequently, this is a good time to replace worn out balljoints, control arm bushings, or tie rods. There is no sense in taking the time to disassemble old, worn-out parts but not replacing them.

In the end, when contemplating a disc brake conversion, consider all of the other things that may need to be addressed in order to complete a quality job. These extra things can drive up the cost, and can transform a small brake swap into a complete suspension and brake system rebuild.

Installing a quarter-panel skin on a musclecar or classic is a great way to repair rusted and damaged quarter-panels, but welding one in place and getting everything to line up just right can be tricky. Nevertheless, it’s well worth the effort because removing the skin allows for easy access to wheelhouses and trunk drops, so that these areas can be easily repaired at the same time. Here are a few tips on installing quarter-panel skins that will save you time and money. 

The first step is to make sure that you have the correct parts and the coverage area is what you need. Skins can come in many different sizes, and you may have to reconsider if a skin is the right choice for your repair. For those that are unsure whether you should patch, skin, or replace a quarter-panel, check out our handy guide.

The next step is to assess where to remove the old quarter-panel. Most new skins will have overlap sections in the door jambs and along the rear edge. Do not use these overlaps since they will cause fitment issues with other parts. Try to get close to an upper bodyline, as this will reduce the amount of fill and also reduce the risk of major warping when welding. Make a rough cut with a cutoff wheel or a pair of sharp shears. Only trim out enough to lay your new skin on top of the existing panel by keeping it about three inches down. Stay about an inch or so back from the door jamb and rear edge. Do not use an air hammer to make your rough cut, as it will distort the quarter-panel and create more work. 

Once you have made a rough cut on the quarter-panel, trim out the spot welds on the wheel lip and remove the remaining portion of the quarter. In some situations, depending on the amount of rust and the coverage area of the new skin, you will remove the spot welds and old quarter-panel along the rocker and trunk drop. 

Next, trim the new quarter-panel. To start, trim the front edge of the panel ¼- to ½-inch behind the curved edge of the door jamb. The same applies to the rear edge. Trim it a ¼- to ½-inch from the edge of the existing panel. Finally, trim the top edge about one- to two inches down from the body line you are using.

Now you need to lay the trimmed quarter-panel into place. Use claps and screws to get the fit right. You should have an overlap of about 1- to 1.5 inches around the top and sides of the panel. Use self-tapping screws and locking pliers and clamps to hold the new quarter-panel in place. The lower section should go in the factory quarter-panel mounting locations. Trace a line from the trimmed, new quarter-panel to the existing old one, and then remove the skin for final trim work.

You will now trim the top edge of the old quarter roughly ½-inch down from the traced line.  At the front and rear edges, trim along the line to allow for a tight butt match. Now you will need to use a flanging tool to flange the top edge of the quarter-panel. This tool costs around $45 at Harbor Freight Tools. Flange the top edge of the new quarter-panel so the old one will lie in flush. Also, punch the holes in the wheelwell and along the trunk drop and rocker, making sure the holes will line up with the flat, spot weld areas. 

Now slip the quarter-panel in place underneath the top section. The overlapped section should be less than ½ inch. Make sure to use a weld-through type of primer on all mating surfaces. Screw and clamp the panel back into position. Use plenty of clamps and screws to hold the quarter-panel tight and flush in all areas. At this point the quarter-panel should be in place, flush on the front and rear edges, and the overlap at the top should be flush on the exterior surface.

With the quarter-panel in position, it’s time to weld. Start by tack welding small spots along the top and side edges. Weld the quarter-panel along the top edge in short ¼- to ½-inch stitches while skipping a weld every 10 to 12 inches. The goal is to keep the panel as cool as possible. This is a very crucial step since the hotter the panel gets, the more it will warp. Take your time and go slowly. Rushing through this procedure will only cause problems and additional work. Make sure all the seams are welded solid and verify that the spot weld are nice.

To finish up before final bodywork can begin, grind all the welds as flat as possible, going slow to keep the panel cool. Once you have grinded the welds, you can now start to body work the seams. Use a first coat of fiberglass body filler as a base, and finish with a high-quality body filler.

Before you call it done, make sure to seam seal the top edge on the inside of the trunk and quarter window area, and also along the rocker panel. For added future protection, use a can of rust proofing and a straw to reach the areas in the trunk drop and above the wheelhouse.

To recap, take your time, make sure you keep the welds small, and grind them down as much as possible before you start final bodywork. And remember to patch in or replace any other items like a trunk drop or wheelhouse before you final fit and weld.

Tip #1

Start at the fuse box. If you are putting in an aftermarket harness, most have the full length of wires attached to the fuse box. Separate the front engine wires, and put them inside a zip tied loom. Do the same with each of the individual component like the gauges, heat and A/C. Also, separate the light harness from the engine harness and taillight harness. Route the wires and hang them in their approximate locations.

Tip #2

Next, move on to the dash. Don’t try to use the entire length of wire. Use only what you need. If you must splice in wires, make sure you solder and shrink all connection. Butt splices are a good way to lose connections or create intermittent connections. In many vehicles, the entire dash can be removed as a complete assembly. If this is possible, measure the length to the fuse panel mounting location and wire your dash with it detached from the vehicle.

Tip #3

Before you start to wire in things like the headlights, marker lights and taillights, have them installed or at least mocked up first. Once they are in place, the routing of the wires can be cleaner and tighter since you will know exactly where your wires are going to go.

Tip #4

Avoid having dangling wires in the engine compartment. Wires that are not tied up tight can fall onto the exhaust, or other high-heat or high-vibration areas, that can cause melted or chafed wires. These wires can be major fire hazards if not secured properly.

Tip #5

Anytime you have wires going through a hole, the wires need to be taped and loomed, then fed through a rubber grommet. Wires that need to be routed through holes, if not properly secured, can also be a fire hazard. Sharp holes in metal will eventually chafe through a wire’s insulation, so make sure the wires are protected. 

In conclusion, remember that clean wiring not only looks better, but it will also help with any diagnosis that may need to be performed in the future. No one likes to sort through a nest of wires. To prevent electrical fires, beware of pinched, cut or loose ends.

Flat black paint is hot, and it’s a trend that continues to gain traction in hot rods and classic trucks. As with everything related to paint and bodywork, there is a right and wrong way to do it. A common misconception is that applying flat black is a time saver that requires less work than a traditional paint job. The truth of the matter is that flat black paint requires just as much prep work as a standard basecoat/clear coat application. The big benefit of flat black is that it does not highlight flaws in the metal work like a regular paint.

Like any good paint job, proper body work, priming, and prep work all need to come first when applying flat black. A good flat paint needs to be treated the same as if you were going to paint the vehicle with a glossy finish. The paint surfaces have to be sanded and scuffed, and the vehicle needs to be masked appropriately.

Not all satin or flat paint has to be clear coated. With new environmental regulation and a low demand for single stage-paints, you will most likely use a base clear. One important feature of choosing paint is to make sure that it has UV protection. If the paint does not have UV protection, the paint will start to fade and become chalky over a short period of time.

Flat paint must also be sprayed with the same techniques as a standard glossy paint. Apply the sealer first, followed by the base coat, and next the clear coat. On big difference is that flat paint requires a low-gloss or a satin-finish clear versus a high-gloss clear that’s typically used in a normal paint job. Likewise, when spraying flat paint it is crucial to have even coats, as heavier or uneven coats can change the sheen of the low-gloss clear.

One major advantage of flat paint is that it does not need to be buffed like a regular clear coat. This also has its drawbacks because the dirt nibs in the paint cannot be buffed out. Buffing will cause the paint to become shiny in localized spots, which is undesirable with flat black. Moreover, flat paint can also be troublesome when it comes to scuffs and scratches. With a normal clear coat, some scuffs can be sanded and buffed so the scuff will completely disappear. This is not the case with your flat paint. Since it cannot be buffed, you will not be able to sand out the scuffs.

Maintenance of flat paint is also challenging. Waxing and polishing is not an option since it will shine up the flat clear coat and will diminish the look of the overall paint job. The best option is to just use soap and water, and a clean towel to dry.

Overall, a good flat paint job can be cool and tough, but there are some pitfalls to take into account. It can be a time saver since it doesn’t have to be buffed, but maintaining the paint to keep it looking fresh is tricky. If you want the low-gloss look, go for it, and have fun with your hot rod.

With the popularity of sites like Craigslist and eBay, shopping for project cars over the Internet has opened up a whole new world of opportunities. The downside is that when you’re dealing with older musclecars and classics that are several decades old, it also opens up a whole new world of opportunities for getting hosed. As industry insiders who see many of these online purchases firsthand, the crew at Precision Restorations often meets people who bought a car thinking that it would only need minor repairs only to learn that it actually needs a full-scale restoration. To prevent this from happening to you, performing a proper inspection before you buy a project car will save you bundles of money even if you have to pay a few more bucks in the beginning.

One of the biggest expenses when restoring a vehicle is the paint and bodywork. Not only do these repairs cost the most, but the condition of a car’s paint and body can be dolled up and hidden in pictures or during a quick walk-around inspection. Sometimes this is intentional, and sometimes it’s not, but the burden of assessing a car’s true condition is on the buyer. While it’s hard to sell a car that doesn’t start when the ad claims it runs perfectly, it’s very easy to hide major rust areas with a can of body filler and some spray paint. Remember that all classics require some sort of repair, but following these simple tips might just save you a boatload of money.

Tip #1: Be very weary of “rust free” cars. 

 In reality, there are very few unrestored vehicles that are actually rust free. Most usually have surfaces rust, or at the very least, rust in hard-to-see areas inside the quarter-panels, cowl area, and inside the rocker panels. This is not to say that there are no rust-free cars out there, but be forewarned not to believe these claims at face value.

Tip #2: Look for signs of previous paint jobs.

 Cheap paint jobs can cost a fortune to fix, so here’s what to look for. Look near the trim and in the jambs for paint edges or small chips that may reveal a different color. Signs of flaking, peeling or a different color showing through could be sign of a prior paint job that was not stripped properly. This could also be a sign of a vehicle that’s had a quick paint job to cover up a bad one. In a situation like this, the painter did not properly disassemble the vehicle before they painted it, which means that it probably wasn’t prepped properly. Cars like this will usually have paint issues down the road. Paint jobs that have a lot of orange peel and dirt in the paint should also throw up red flags, as the car may have some secrets hidden underneath.

Tip #3: Know where to look for rust.

Look at the obvious places where rust usually starts to form. Major rust areas are in front of and behind the rear wheels, in the corner of the doors, and at the rear lower section of the fenders. These areas are easy to see and accessible in person. Rust holes that have been repaired with body filler usually start out as just a small bubble, then explode from there, so don’t be afraid to get down on your hands and knees and poke around a little bit. If someone is claiming their vehicle is in topnotch shape, there’s no reason why they should object to this. Furthermore, if a vehicle has fresh paint on it, bring a magnet with you. A pocket-sized screwdriver magnet should be sufficient to tell if some poor patch work performed in the past. The magnet should stick firmly, and if it doesn’t, be aware that there may have been some prior work done. If it does not stick at all, there has definitely been some work done.

Tip #4: Beware of shoddy bodywork.           

Finding a good, solid old body in an old car can be hard. Finding poor, old body work is easy. When looking for old bodywork, make sure you have plenty of reflection in the paint. Spots that show major scratches or grooves in the paint usually have had some sort of bodywork performed underneath the paint. On a vehicle that has fresh paint, get it in a highly reflective area.In the areas that have been poorly body-worked or have had poor prep work, use the reflections to get an idea of the texture of the paint. The paint over these areas will look lightly grooved, but the paint will still look normal. This is can be another sign of low quality materials or poor prep work. This doesn’t necessarily guarantee that you will have problems in the future, but it’s a sign that the underlying surfaces may not hold up as long as you would like.

Tip# 5: Inspect floors like a hawk.

Floors can be a huge expense if you have to go back and try to replace or repair hidden rust.  Inspecting them may take some work, but they are something that can be easily looked over.  The best way to check out a floor is to get underneath the car. If you plan to buy a high-dollar car, try to make a deal with a local service station to get it up on a lift. Common rust areas are in the driver floorboard and in the trunk pan. If the undercoating is old and scaly, this is another place that can hide rust. Poke around with a screwdriver, checking for weak and soft areas if rust is not present around bracing and floor plugs. If it has fresh undercoating, look in the areas near the chassis bracing and along the inner rocker panels. These areas may show signs of fresh seam sealer, or you may see sign of non-factory welds. If this is the case, floor patches may have been welded in. While you are under the car, check it out for engine leaks and what has or has not been replaced mechanically on the undercarriage.

These are just a few tips on things to look out for when you are on the hunt for a new ride. Buying a classic is not an easy job, and making sure that you don’t buy a shined up money pit is the top priority. Always make sure to ask a seller as many questions as possible such as when the car was the car restored, what kinds of materials were used, and how much rust was repaired. These questions may lead to stories about the life of the car, and that’s what you want to know.  Also try to get as many old pictures as you can. Good shops take a lot of pictures because they are proud of their work, and those pictures may tell the story of the musclecar or classic you are about to purchase.

Musclecar and classic car values aren’t what they used to be, but despite the unfavorable state of the global economy, the hobby is still going strong. The staggering figures from last weekend’s Barrett-Jackson auction in Scottsdale, Arizona speak for themselves. With more than 300,000 people in attendance, sales totals reached $109 million, and the event marked the highest volume of cars ever sold at a Barret-Jackson auction. So if anyone tells you that investing in a classic car is a losing proposition, think again.

As no surprise, the headlines from last weekend’s Scottdale auction belonged to a small crop of extremely rare one-off machines and concept cars. The original Batmobile TV car commanded a jaw-dropping $4.6 million, and a ’56 Chrysler Diablo convertible—a sunning concept car that could have gone head-to-head with the Corvette had it reached production—sold for $1.4 million. Obviously, these halo cars are far beyond the reach of the typical classic car enthusiast, but the strong demand for them props up the rest of the market as well.

Naturally, the televised segments of the auction highlight the best cars on the block. These include ultra-rare and original musclecars—such as ’70 SS454 Chevelles, Hemi ‘Cudas, Plymouth Superbirds, ’69 Z/28 Camaros, and Cobra Jet Mustangs—that often command $100,000 or more. Cars like these boost TV ratings, which pays Barrett-Jackson’s bills, so the focus on these machines is understandable.

What the TV audience doesn’t often see, however, are the hundreds upon hundreds of driver-quality restorations that comprise the bulk of the auction. These are the types of cars that you see all the time at cruise night or at local car shows that fall within the $20,000-$60,000 window. What that means for the typical enthusiast is that if you ever decide to sell your classic, there’s a good chance you will be able to recover your restoration costs.

Obviously, there are pitfalls to avoid and you have to take a methodical approach to the restoration process. That means starting out with the nicest project car that you can afford, since it’s much more cost effective to buy a nice car up front than it is to buy a heap of rust that requires substantial sheetmetal repair. Furthermore, one of the biggest mistakes hot rodders make is taking their cars to the least expensive restoration facility, only to have to pay twice as much money in the long run fixing mistakes that shouldn’t have been made in the first place.

The key to recovering your classic car investment is resisting the urge to buy the least expensive project car you can find, and spending your restoration dollars where it counts. Let’s say you’re ready to buy that ’69 Camaro you’ve wanted since high school. The going rate for solid driver-quality first-gen Camaro is $15,000 to $20,000. Camaros in this range might require a patch panel here and there, a fresh coat of paint or some new upholstery, but these are simple repairs that would cost $3,000 to $8,000 at most. Considering that rust-free, driver-quality ’69 Camaros with sparkling fresh coats of paint typically command $25,000 to $30,000 at Barrett-Jackson, it’s easy to see how if you spend your money wisely, investing in a restoration project is a very solid investment.      

The number one factor that may make your decision for you is the availability of parts. For example, if you are working on a ’69 Camano you have many options. On the other hand, if you need to repair the quarter-panels on your ’64 Ford Falcon, you may have some trouble finding the panels you want. Likewise, when you start to assess the rust area that needs to be repaired, there are several important issues to keep in mind. First is the location of the rust. Most rust forms in front of and behind the rear axle, as well as in the window frames. Many times you can find replacement panels for these areas. Patch panels come in a multitude of dimensions depending on your vehicle, so if you decide to go this route take a few measurements to confirm that you have a panel that will fit your needs. A benefit of using patch panels is that they allow retaining as much of the original sheetmetal as possible. This makes it easier to maintain the original body lines and gaps. When replacing an entire quarter-panel, setting the door and trunk gaps can be difficult. On obvious drawback of patching a panel is that you might not catch all the rust that’s present. There may be hidden areas of rust that would only be revealed if the entire panel was removed.

Quarter-panel skins can be your savior or your worst enemy if not installed properly. These skins are large panels that coverage a lot of surface area. They usually have the entire wheel lip and edges folded over on the ends that wrap around them as well. If you decide to replace the quarter-panel skins here are a few things to keep in mind. Skins require a lot of welding skill. A weld seam that runs along the length of the quarter-panel, which is often required when installing a skin, can warp very easily. You must take your time when welding, and go slow to keep the welds clean. Another drawback is that you will have body filler from end to end. Body filler is not a bad thing if done right and in moderation, but if you are looking to keep it to a minimum, a skin will increase the amount of filler required. On the other hand, a major benefit of using a skin is that you can still keep you original gaps. Aftermarket panels sometimes need modification to re-create those nice factory gaps. Also, by removing the old section of quarter-panel, you will have access to you wheelhouses and inner structure to inspect, clean, or repair as necessary.

The last option is replacing the entire quarter-panel. These panels can be a huge time saver and also provide the biggest coverage area of all. Full quarters usually replace the originals in the factory locations, which means the welds stay in the stock locations as well. Full quarter-panel replacement will take care of rusted areas in the rear window frames, trunk jambs and door jambs. Full quarters also give you access to the wheel house, trunk drop, and any other inner body structures. Moreover, full quarters require the least amount of bodywork to make them straight, which keeps body filler to a minimum. Of course, there are some drawbacks to using full quarters. The biggest concern is that the quality of aftermarket replacement panels can be a problem. These include fitment issues, stamping issues, and general line-up issues. New old stock (NOS) parts are great if you can find them, but are very pricey.

In conclusion, there are several ways to repair rusted quarter-panels, and knowing the pros and cons of each method makes the decision-making process much easier. These are just a few of the options, and every car and situation is different. So whether you decide to patch it, skin it or replace it, taking the right steps during you restoration will ensure a long-lasting repair. 

We recently had to opportunity to design a custom stripe package for a 1987 full-size Chevy truck with a cowl-induction hood. The truck was being shot with Honda Laguna blue (code B-545P) and we altered the color slightly to suit our customer’s taste. To add a nice bit of contrast, we chose GM Ermine White for the stripes. Since we didn’t want to darken the overall paint scheme with a darker-colored stripe, the white stripe complemented the bright blue paint perfectly. White and black are the most common color choices for stripes, and either will work well depending on personal preference.

We started off by spraying the entire hood with the basecoat blue. There is no need to try to keep the paint thin underneath the stripes, since the amount of material you will save by doing so will be minimal. Likewise, applying even coats will give you a good foundation for your second color. Before any masking can begin, the basecoat blue must dry completely. Most base coats have a 24-hour window before you must res-cuff the top coat, so the safest bet is letting your basecoat dry overnight. With some heavy metallics and pearls, a coat of clear basecoat can be applied to the original base. This will lock down the pearls and metallic, and prevent the tape from pulling and dragging them.

There are four essential materials to have when laying out stripes:

1)    A good seamstress tape measure. This tape is flexible and hugs the body lines and curves.

2)     A roll of fine-line stripe tape. The best option for this is 3M’s Vinyl Tape 471+. We used part number 06405 for the ¼-inch tracer along the border of our stripe design. 

3)    A roll of 1.5-inch masking tape. We recommend Scotch Green Performance, part number 26338. This is for the wider area in the center of the hood where masking paper is too bulky to use.

4)     A roll of ¾-inch masking tape, part number 26334. This will be used for measuring and masking around curves.

The first step in laying out your stripes is to find the center of the hood. Not only do you want to find the center on the front and back of the hood, you will also want to find the center in at least two other areas toward the middle. Mark these spots with the ¾-inch tape by using a pencil or pen to pinpoint the center. If the peak of the hood isn’t centered, which is sometimes the case with aftermarket hoods, use the center peak as your reference point. 

Next, you will want to find the position of the inside edge of your stripe. This measurement can be personal preference, but on some vehicles with original stripes, refer to your assembly manual for stripe widths and measurements. I suggest playing around with the inside edge positioning, and finding a point that gives you the look you want by placing some ¾-inch tape at the point you want your stripe to begin. The center width should be somewhere between three- to six inches depending on the shape of the hood. Once you have found this location, take a measurement from the rear center marking. If using ¼-inch fine line tape, add ¼ inch to your measurement.

Mark the inside stripe with the ¼-inch added measurement using a small piece of ¾-inch masking tape and a straight-edge. Starting at the rear of the hood, lightly set the fine line tape in place. Pull the tape from the front to the back, pulling the tape taut while being careful not to stretch it. Using your eyes as a guide, lay the tape down by holding the roll. Lay the tape in a smooth motion, watching for any waves, wrinkles or curves. Make sure you run the tape past the point of where you want your stripe to end.

Don’t push the tape down by running your fingers along it, as this will cause the tape to want to move and shift. Instead, use straight downward pressure to push the tape into place. This piece will be the guide for your inside stripe. After you have laid the guide piece in place, pull up the marked piece of ¾-inch tape. Now you will run another piece of fine line tape on each edge of the first one, making sure not to overlap or create gaps between them. Once the two pieces have been set in place, remove the center tape. Now you have the gap in place for your tracer stripe.

For the outside edge of the stripe, the same techniques apply, but you will want to use an outer body line or accent line as your guide. Measure off the body line or the side of the hood.  Depending on your vehicle’s body lines, it might be necessary to add ¼ inch when laying your guide stripe. Now lay pieces on each side and remove the center tape.

The radius on the front of the strip is a matter of personal preference. I like to use the approximate radius of a spray can to use as a reference. As you lay the stripe around the radius, slowly curve the tape while sticking it to the panel in a smooth motion. The tape can be pulled up and re-done if necessary to achieve the correct curve, but this can only be a done a couple times before you have to start over. The front edge of the stripe should run straight with the front edge of the hood, then mate up with the inside stripe. The tape lines should come together and overlap.  Use a razor blade and very light hand pressure to trim the excess tape within the tracer stripe. Use your fingernails to press the overlap together in order to keep the tape sealed tight.

At this point, you can see the shape and size of your stripes. All that is left to do is mask the areas that will remain the same color, in our case blue. Use the wider 1.5-inch tape to mask in between the stripes, and use smaller pieces of ¾-inch tape around the corners. Next, lay your masking paper over the rest, making sure there are no holes or seams the overspray can get to.

You should now be ready to spray. Apply only enough paint to cover the base color. If too many coats are applied, the paint buildup will not allow you to sand and buff the clearcoat flat, creating a noticeably raised section along the perimeter of the stripe. After spraying the color of the stripes and letting the new color flash dry, remove the masked area and apply some clearcoat. Be sure to try to apply an extra coat of clear, as this will allow for the stripes to be sanded and buffed flat.

Ultimately, the finished look of your stripes depend their on sizing and scale in relation to the hood or deck lid. Getting the proportions correct will keep them from overpowering the look of your car. The tracer look is very tasteful, but all of the same procedures apply to stripes that don’t incorporate a tracer as well. The key is to take your time and to step back from time to time to gauge your progress. Getting your stripes straight and even is everything.

Recently, we ran across a defective set of headers immediately after installing them on a customer’s car. The first sign of trouble was a very loud exhaust leak. Initial inspection of the headers revealed solid welds and a nice ceramic work was nice, so the next step was inspecting the gaskets. After removing one of the headers, we found major carbon residue along the sealing surfaces despite the use of high-quality gaskets and fasteners. As it turns out, the header flanges had been machined so poorly that the sealing surfaces were completely untrue, grooved up, and uneven. This could have been fixed prior to installation using a straight edge or a pair of trained eyes.

The moral of the story is to inspect any new parts for flaws prior to installing them. Chrome work needs to be inspected for pits, cracks, or flaking chrome. Plastic parts need to be checked for broken tabs, cracked parts, or pieces missing. Engine parts need to be checked to ensure that sealing surfaces are smooth, even, and free of burs. Most aftermarket companies will stand behind their product, so if you run a cross an inferior part, exchange it for a new one. This will save you time and money in the long run.

1)    Wash the vehicle surface with soap and water thoroughly before starting any work. This will remove road grime that has accumulated over the years. Do not use any soap that contains sealers or waxes since they can lead to the formation of fisheyes in finish of the new paint.

2)    Remove as may bolt-on parts as possible including door handles, moldings, taillights, and emblems. Not only does this make the masking process easier, but it also allows removing the existing paint more thoroughly. This improves paint adhesion and reduces the possibility of the new paint flaking. If it’s not possible to remove windshields, it may be necessary to use lifting tape. This product wedges under the flexible moldings, and allows for access to the painted surfaces that need prepping.

3)    Wipe down the body surface using a quality wax and grease remover before any sanding takes place. Make sure that the wax and grease remover is applied with one towel, and that it’s dried off with a separate towel. This ensures that any remaining contaminates are removed and not merely spread around the panels.

4)    Finish-sand the paint with different grits of sand paper depending on if color and clearcoat are being applied, or if a panel is simply being color blended. For base/clear coat applications, first sand the paint with 400-grit paper. A dual-action sander with a foam backup pad is the preferred tool for this step.  Avoid breaking through the clear coat, as this increases the chance of lifting.

5)    Next, lightly sand the surface with 600-grit paper. Make sure all of the shininess of the old clearcoat is gone while still trying to remove any shine the old clear may have. To access the inside edges, corners, and other hard-to-reach places, a use a gray Scotch-Brite pad.

6)    If the basecoat is in good shape, applying a fresh coat of clear can restore a paint’s luster to like-new condition. To do this, remove the old clearcoat using a dual-action sander 1,000-grit paper, and a foam backup pad. The goal is to remove all traces of shine from the paint surface. Again, gray Scotch-Brite pads work in for hard-to-reach areas.

7)    After all sanding has been completed, blow off all the dust and wash the surface with a wax- and sealer-free soap and water.  Dry off the surface, then scuff away any remaining shiny spots with a Scotch-Brite pad.

8)    Wipe down the vehicle surface one final time before painting, as contaminants can transfer from your hands onto the paint surface. Use one damp rag to wipe the surface with, then use a second clean rag to dry it off. Next, wipe down the surface with a quality wax and grease remover.

9)    Finally, with the surface finish prepped it’s now ready for masking

 1) A very common scenario when performing sheetmetal repair is installing an aftermarket quarter-panel while keeping an original door. In this case, it’s imperative to pre-fit the door by aligning it door with the existing quarter-panel and fender.  Fit as many panels as possible, taking note of the shim and hinge placement. This probably won’t be the final location of the door, but it will give you a great starting point for the new quarter. When fitting panels, make sure the weatherstripping is in place, as this will ensure you have enough room for the door to close.

 2) After removing the old quarter-panel and cleaning up welds, mock it in place to see how closely it aligns with the original door and trunk. Some trimming will be necessary to acheive the best fit possible.

 3) Once the new quarter-panel has been wrestled into place, chances are the gaps at the door and trunk will not be within an acceptable range. Move the panel around to minimize the disparity in gaps as much as possible. Until all final adjustments have been made, keep the quarter-panel in position with clamps or self-tapping screws.

 4) After every attempt has been made to achieve a quality fit, it’s time to modify the sheetmetal.  Door-to-quarter edges are the most common. If the gap is too small, use a 3/32-inch cutoff wheel to remove roughly 1/8-inch of metal from the edge of the quarter-panel. Once cut, lightly tap the edge backwards. If it’s necessary to remove more metal, re-cut the quarter-panel along the same line. Repeat this process as many times as necessary to obtain an even 3/16- to ¼-inch gap. Use small tack welds to re-weld the gap and grind them smooth.

5) If the panel gap is too big, make the same cut but this time use a chisel or screwdriver to draw the quarter-panel forward.  When the door edge gap is even with the door, use welding rod to fill the opening that has just been cut. Welding rod is available in 3/32- and 1/16-inch sticks, and it can easily be bent to match the contour of the quarter-panel. In sections where the opening tapers, grind the welding rod to a taper and tack it into place. Next, double check  the gap and weld it in solid, and grind it smooth.

6) These same techniques can be used to push the quarter-panel or to pull it outward if necessary. Modifications are sometimes needed around the windows, trunk lids, valances and any other adjacent panel, but remember to make sure to align the panel as best as possible before making any cuts.

First and foremost, make sure to thoroughly clean the vehicle. The typical body shop is a dusty environment, so start by blowing all the dust out of the door jambs, wheelwells, engine compartment, and various nooks and crannies. Next, the vehicle surface needs to be washed, dried, and blown out again to make sure that it is free of debris. Don’t forget to use a different sponge or rag when washing extremely grimy areas to prevent contaminating the outer panels that will be painted.

When it comes time to actually lay down the masking tape, back masking is a simple technique used by the pros that ensures optimal results. This involves applying tape to the back edge of the pinch welds, door and fender edges, and along the bottom of rocker panels. Back masking allows the paint to taper instead of forming a hard line along the edge of the tape. Likewise, in areas of the car that collect dirt and grime—like the rockers and wheel lips—it can be difficult to get the tape to stick to the surface. To combat this, first try to clean the back edges of rockers and wheel lips with a Scotch-Brite pad to loosen built up dirt and road debris. If that’s not enough, try applying a small amount of a cheap clear coat on a rag on the problem areas The clear coat will give the tape a sticky surface to adhere to. After allowing the clear to sit for a couple of minutes, the tape should now stick.

Moreover, taping off the jambs on a car that is still assembled presents its own unique challenges. Using 18-inch masking paper on a quality tape machine, mask off the jamsb of the doors, trunk and hood areas while making relief holes for strikers and latches.  Next, use foam aperture tape along the non-moving side of the jamb. For example, tape the fender side of the hood jamb, and the quarter side of a door jamb. Once the masking paper has been applied, tape down and folds and creases that are present in the paper. This will prevent trapped overspray and dirt from blowing out while spraying the fresh paint.

For windshields, glass openings and all other large open areas first back mask the pinch welds where possible using 1.75-inch tape. Next use 0.75-inch tape to create a “jail cell” for the paper to sit on. This step saves the hassle of trying to keep the paper tight and wrinkle free. Then, lay a large piece of paper over the entire area, stick the paper to the tape that’s already been applied around the pinch welds. Using extremely light pressure, trim the paper along the taped edge while keeping the paper as close to the body as possible.

Last but not least, make sure all holes—such as emblem, handle and molding holes—are taped from behind. Before paint work begins, use light air pressure to blow the masked areas making sure that the tape and paper are properly secured. If the tape or paper comes loose, re-tape and try again until the vehicle is sealed up tight. When all said and done, only areas that should be exposed are those you wish to paint. Overspray will find a way to sneak into unmasked areas, so examine the making work one last time to make sure everything that should be covered up is indeed covered up.

Every musclecar enthusiast dreams of having their car featured in a magazine someday, and you can’t aim much higher than Hot Rod. With nearly seven million readers and a storied history spanning more than 60 years, Hot Rod has built its reputation on covering only the best that the performance and restoration industries have to offer. Tom Parker’s numbers-matching ‘71 SS396 Chevelle convertible certainly fits that description, and the crew at Precision Restorations is thrilled to have helped make that dream a reality for Tom. Read all about it in the November 2012 issue of Hot Rod.

Each month, Hot Rod publishes a story outlining the complete build of a reader’s project car from start to finish. The more extreme the makeover, the better, and Tom’s Chevelle was nothing more than a rusty carcass when it arrived in our shop in November 2010. Over the course of the following 15 months, Precision Restorations reversed 23 years of neglect by replacing virtually every square inch of metal on the car in addition to rebuilding the engine, driveline, suspension, and brakes. 

Needless to say, Tom is one happy camper. “I just picked up the new issue of Hot Rod, and all I can say is wow! How cool is that,” he gushes. “I can't thank the guys at Precision Restorations enough. It's really a dream come true. My dad Charlie has been subscribing to Hot Rod for over 40 years, and he said he never thought one of his cars would be in it. He and I always talked about cars when I was growing up, many times while thumbing through the latest car magazine. It's amazing that we now have a car of our own to see in the pages of Hot Rod magazine!”

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

Errinn is working hard on the radiator install, electric fan install and wiring up the engine.

To see past updates on the vehicle click the link below:

1968 Checker Marathon

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Charlie is in the process of installing the new vinyl top for the vehicle.

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Jeff and Jake are hard at work today getting the new floor welded in and the old wheel houses removed.

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

We are getting the transmission reinstalled today.

To see past updates on the vehicle click the link below:

1968 Checker Marathon

Dan is sanding and buffing the Roadrunner today and the paint is looking 10 miles deep.

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Jake and the team are getting the top system installed for the Jeep.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep CJ5

Frank has fabricated radiator mounts for the top of the radiator.  

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1963 Lincoln Continental

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

The vehicle got finished up with body work and Dan just primed the vehicle.  

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Justin and Jake are working together today on assembling the bed and the stakesides.

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

The frame has been disassembled, is completely blasted and now Jake is working on repairing the weak areas that have rusted through.

Today Frank has been working on installing a new dual electric fan setup.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1963 Lincoln Continental

We stripped the original paint down to bare metal and began restoring the body of this Nash.  Once repaired we sealed it with a high grade primer.  Dan then block sanded the body to make sure that the body was laser straight.  Now back in 1948 these Nashs could come with a two tone paint job and our client has opted to go with a custom paint combination of green and cream.  These color will carry over from the exterior of the vehicle to the inside window trim and dash.  The paint of choice for our restoration facility is Spies Hecker, a German based paint company.  We find that their paint has a better finish and holds up longer than any of the other brands out there.  They also offer a lifetime warranty on their product.

Today, our interior technicians have started to cut out the patterns for the custom seat covers.

To see past post on this project click the link below:

1948 Nash Ambassador

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Assembly is nearly complete and the seat is wrapped up.

We stripped the original paint down to bare metal and began restoring the body of this Nash.  Once repaired we sealed it with a high grade primer.  Dan then block sanded the body to make sure that the body was laser straight.  Now back in 1948 these Nashs could come with a two tone paint job and our client has opted to go with a custom paint combination of green and cream.  These color will carry over from the exterior of the vehicle to the inside window trim and dash.  The paint of choice for our restoration facility is Spies Hecker, a German based paint company.  We find that their paint has a better finish and holds up longer than any of the other brands out there.  They also offer a lifetime warranty on their product.

Today, our interior technicians have started to cut out the patterns for the custom seat covers.

To see past post on this project click the link below:

1948 Nash Ambassador

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Today Jeff have the frame back in the blast chamber for media blasting and they are getting the car and supports set up to install the floor.

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Today Jeff and Jake are working on disassembling the frame to get it blasted.

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Today Ralph is installing the hood and Charlie is working on getting the new seat cover stitched up.

Dan finished painting the car today and I looks beautiful.

Dan is finishing up the bocking for the body of the Roadunner today.

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Today Ralph is installing the front fenders.  Jake is also hard at work staining and clearing the wood for the bed.

Jake is trying to finish up the interior assembly.  Right now he is working on installing the radio, speaker and dash chrome.

You can find past postings on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1967 Dodge Charger

Today Dan is blocking the vehicle and getting it prepped for paint.

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Jake just finished getting the dash back in the vehicle and is currently working on assembling the windshield frame.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep CJ5

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

We now have the old inner rockers cut out and trimed to fit in preperation of welding in the new pieces.

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Ralph has finished assembling the back panels, splash aprons and running boards.

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Today we are starting to assemble the body and trim for the vehicle.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep CJ5

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Today, Jake is working on getting the hump for the four speed transmission cut and welded into the new floor.

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

More assembly today!

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

The vehicle is painted, looks great and is ready for assembly.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep CJ5

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

More assembly!

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Now take a look at what is left of the Chevelle today.  Jeff and Jake have the back half cut off as well as the old floor out!  They will soon be prepping for the new cabin and trunk floor installs.

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Currently Dan is sanding the body to get it prepped for paint.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep CJ5

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Currently Ralph is working on reassembly.  Specifically he is putting in the rear body panels today.

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Currently Jeff and Jake have got the body off of the frame and they are working on cutting out the floor for replacement.

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

We are finishing up the final steps of the engine install and are about ready to head back out on the road.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1974 Toyota FJ40

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Dan has finished painting the body and panels for the Mustang

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Today our technicians are working on assembly of the exterior trim such as the latches, strikers and handles.

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Assembly continues for the Buick and below you can see pictures of the bumper brackets that we blasted and painted getting installed.

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Dan is just finishing the block sanding 

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

The vehicle is finished with paint and we are working on reassembly.

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

We have two technicians hard at work knocking out the assembly on this vehicle and it is really coming together.

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Dan is just finishing the block sanding 

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Justin started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Justin is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Justin will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A crate engine and 6 speed transmission, supercharger and custom shifter. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end and installing huge drags, custom fuel cell, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

You can see the supercharger set up on the top of the engine below.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1965 Ford Mustang

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Today, Charlie has started to strip down the old seats for restoration

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1938 Buick Special

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

We have finished the paint stage and now Jeff has started to assemble the vehicle.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1938 Buick Special

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Dan just finished painting the red for the vehicle and it really looks nice!

Check out past post on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1929 Ford Model A

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today Dan is blocking the body and panels to get them ready for paint.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Ralph has been working on blocking the body anb today is working on the inner fenders.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicles panels and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  The final step of the body will be to remove every component off the body and put the bare shell up on the rotisserie.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

The body just finished getting media blasted and is now ready for repairs.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1971 Ford Torino GT Convertible

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

Bryan is working today on getting the engine and drivetrain reinstalled in the Toyota.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1974 Toyota FJ40

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Dan has finished painting the black and he is now buffing the pan

Check out past post on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1929 Ford Model A

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Ralph is continuing today on body working and blocking the body.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

Today Bryan is working on assembling the engine.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1974 Toyota FJ40

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Ralph has been working the last couple of days on the body work for the passenger door, fender and on the roof.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Jeff has been working the last couple of days on cutting out the old quarter panels and stripping the rest of the vehicle down to bare metal.

Justin and Charlie have been working on installing the new headliner and assembling the rest of the interior.

You can find past postings on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1967 Dodge Charger

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Dan just finished cutting in the black paint for the body and panels.

Check out past post on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1929 Ford Model A

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

Bryan has the engine dropped back onto the motor mounts and is ready to start hooking up the tranny.

To see past updates on the vehicle click the link below:

1968 Checker Marathon

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Today Dan is getting ready to prime the Ford.

Check out past post on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1929 Ford Model A

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

Today Bryan is working on assembling the engine.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1974 Toyota FJ40

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Yesterday dan finished cutting in all the panels and painting the trunk

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

We have finished disassembling the Chevelle and now Jeff is taking a close look over the entire vehicle again.

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today ralph is blocking the body work for both the quarters.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Ralph has both quarters welded up and he is working smooth both seams out and other rough spots on the body.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the front and rear brakes
-Repairing the A/C
-Replacing the fuel filter
- Replacing the exhaust system

Today the specific task that Bryan is working on is restoring the brake system.

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today Dan is prepping the Mustang for paint

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

Today the specific task that Dan is working on is rebuilding the front differential.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1974 Toyota FJ40

The first step of this car restoration is the disassembly. For this Jeff is starting out with removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that he will stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Jeff will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.  There are a few panels for this car that will be replaced such as the quarters, hood, deck lid and one fender.

Today you can see that Jeff has been working on the interior removal, removing the front clip and gutting the doors.  We also got all the new sheet metal in from dynacorn today.

We love doing muscle car restorations.  This one is a 1971 Ford Torino GT Convertible with.  Our client has owned this car since it was new. Every restorations is unique.  For some we are only restoring mechanical systems, or only restoring the interior or paint.  For this restoration we are going the whole way.

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicles panels and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  The final step of the body will be to remove every component off the body and put the bare shell up on the rotisserie.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Over the last couple of days Jeff has been blasting the body and now that it is done we can look it over for any hidden damage.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1971 Ford Torino GT Convertible

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Today we are media blasting the bed frame.

Check out past post on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1929 Ford Model A

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Justin started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Justin is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Justin will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A crate engine and 6 speed transmission, supercharger and custom shifter. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end and installing huge drags, custom fuel cell, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today after months of waiting we just received the custom built supercharger

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1965 Ford Mustang

Custom built intake

Custom supercharger

Intake and supercharger

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Bryan is working on the electrical and brake lines for the car and we just got the bright work back.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1948 Nash Ambassador

Rechromed bumper

Bright work done

Working on the electrical

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today ralph is body working the welded seams for the new quarter panel.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

Passenger quarter smoothed out

Body working the passenger quarter

Finish welding the drivers quarter

Panels going on the Chevelle

Body working the drivers quarter

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Dan is currently painting the trunk and then will prep the car for paint.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Plymouth Roadunner

Roadrunner masked off for paint

Painted trunk

Trunk floor and wheel wells painted

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

Today Bryan is working on getting the engine and tranny ready to drop back in.

To see past updates on the vehicle click the link below:

1968 Checker Marathon

Prepping the engine

Prepping the engine for install

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today ralph is welding on the drivers quarter panel.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

Quarter ready for finishing

Wheel house ready to weld

Wheel house ready to be welded

Drivers quarter welded on

Trunk finished off

Holding the quarter in place for welding

Welding up the drivers quarter seam

Today Dan is working on installing the new digital setup for the air ride.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1963 Lincoln Continental

Digital control

Finishing up the pump and valve body install

Ridetech parts in

For this vehicle we are:

-Disassembling the body
-Stripping the paint
-Repairing the minor dents and rust around the vehicle
-Repainting the vehicle
- Replacing the vinyl top
- Reassembling the vehicle.

Today Justin is working on installing bumpers, trim and emblems.

Installing drivers rocker

Front bumper installed

Installing the passenger rocker trim

Installing the front bumper

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today ralph is finishing up the trunk pan install.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

Sealing the welds

Trunk pan going in

Smoothing out the repairs

Smoothing out the trunk repairs

For this vehicle we are:

-Disassembling the body
-Stripping the paint
-Repairing the minor dents and rust around the vehicle
-Repainting the vehicle
- Replacing the vinyl top
- Reassembling the vehicle.

We will possibly also be restoring the interior.

Today Justin is hard at work on assembly and we are installing the new vinyl top.

Installing the grill

Assembling the Caddy

Installing the vinyl top

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today Dan painted the engine bay, inner fenders and firewall.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

Painting engine bay

Painting engine bay

To us the definition of a custom street rod is a classic car that has been modified and upgraded to go faster and perform better.

For this Cuda we went all out.  The customization of this vehicle starts at the front with a one off grill and goes all the way back with a frenched bumper and custom tail pan with every part upgraded in between.

Below is a quick list of the upgrades to this vehicle:

- Custom built full frame will tube reinforcements
- Dana 60 full floating rear end
- Dutchman Axles
- Wilwood disk brakes
- Hothkis tubular suspension
- Custom hood raised to clear the engine
- 900 hp big block hemi
- Custom built automatic tranny with paddle shift
- Electric master/booster
- Shaved doors and trunk
- Custom built floor
- Dash chopped and moved forward to give more interior space
- Custom two tone paint job
- Smoothed front inner fenders and firewall
- Custom built headers and exhaust
- 20″ Carbon fiber wheels
- Digital gauges
- Custom waterfall center console

We just got back the exhaust from the power coater.

Click below to see the past updates on this vehicle:

1973 Plymouth Barracuda

Ready to go back together

Powder Coated Exhaust

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Dan has finished the paint on the vehicle and Justin has been working on the reassembly of the vehicle.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1948 Nash Ambassador

Front end assembled

Assembling the front end panels

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Dan is painting this vehicle a custom maroon color that was hand picked by our client.

Below are a few more photos of the finished paint and the floor of the Car in POR.  Dan has also started to move forward on sanding and buffing the front fenders.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1938 Buick Special

Finished paint

Sanding and buffing front fender

Floor in POR

Floor in POR

Finished paint

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint. For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle. Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc. We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area. After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal. This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later. Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal. After that we will etch and seal the vehicle. Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car. A rebuilt engine and transmission. Rewiring the vehicle. Installing new steering suspension and brakes. New fuel lines, brake lines, etc.. But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun. The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Recently Ralph has been working on cutting out the old quarter skins, trunk drops and trunk floor so he can install the new panels.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

New trunk floor going in

Installing new trunk floor

Passenger floor pan cut out

Cutting out trunk floor

Cutting out trunk floor

Cutting out floor

Cutting out trunk drops

Installing passenger drop pan

The mechanical restoration of this vehicle is pretty basic for the most part.

We are:

• Getting the air scoop functioning
• Replacing the power steering hoses
• Getting the tach working
• Replacing the tranny with a 700r4
• Repacking the wheel bearings
• Replacing the valve cover gaskets
• Replacing the fuel pump oil gasket
• Replacing the rubber fuel hoses
• Replacing the sway bar mount bushings
• Replacing the outer axle seals
• Replacing the ebrake cables
• Replacing the shocks
• Replacing the control arm bushings
• Cleaning up and undercoating the vehicle

Replacing the control arm bushings

Repairing mechanical systems

Cleaning up control arms for paint

Working on the engine

Replacing the valve cover gaskets

Ready to start mechanical

Front suspension painted

Undercoating

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Dan is painting this vehicle a custom maroon color that was hand picked by our client.

Over the last couple of days Dan has finished masking and painting the vehicle.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1938 Buick Special

Buick painted

Buick painted

Painted fender

Painted fender

Painted spare tire covers

Prepping panels for paint

Masking for paint

Buick Painted

Buick Painted

Buick Painted

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal.  After that we will etch and seal the vehicle.  Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..  But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun.  The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today Dan has finished up etching the parts of the body that where mechanically stripped.  The parts that were not stripped are going to be replaced (quarters, deck lid, hood, etc..)

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

Drivers door repair

Repairing the door

Today Dan is working on installing the new rear leaf springs.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

http://www.precisioncarrestoration.com/?s=1963+Lincoln

Leaf springs installed

Replacing the leaf springs

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the front and rear brakes
-Repairing the A/C
-Replacing the fuel filter
- Replacing the exhaust system

Today the specific task that Bryan has got the engine removed and he is breaking it down to send it out.

Engine ready to go out

Tranny ready for reseal

Engine teardown

Breaking down the engine

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

Today we are media blasting the bed frame.

Check out past post on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1929 Ford Model A

Blasting the bed frame

Blasting the bed frame

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this we started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that we stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal we cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Dan is painting this vehicle a custom maroon color that was hand picked by our client.

Within the last week Dan has been sanding the vehicle to get it prepped for paint.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1938 Buick Special

Prepping the buick

Sanding the roof for paint

Prepping the roof

The first step of this car restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal.  After that we will etch and seal the vehicle.  Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..  But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun.  The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today Dan has finished up etching the parts of the body that where mechanically stripped.  The parts that were not stripped are going to be replaced (quarters, deck lid, hood, etc..)

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle

Chevelle etched and sealed

Passenger door and fender etched and sealed

Roof etched and sealed

Drivers fender and door etched and sealed

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today Ralph has been working on blasting the engine bay to get it ready for paint.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

Media blasting the engine bay

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the front and rear brakes
-Repairing the A/C
-Replacing the fuel filter
- Replacing the exhaust system

Today the specific task that Bryan is working on is removing the engine to send out for rebuilding.

Engine removal

Getting ready to remove the engine

Engine removal

Removing the engine

Removing the exhaust

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Currently Bryan has finished the majority of the mechanical work, minus some of the final wiring.  So, today Justin is body working the front aftermarket fenders as they came in a little rough from the manufacture.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep CJ5

Body working the passenger fender

Body working the drivers fender

Body working the aftermarket fenders

Body working the aftermarket passenger fender

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Ralph started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph is stripping the paint off the vehicle and going to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle is to bare metal Ralph will cut out any rusted areas and replace it with good metal.  After that we will etch and seal the vehicle.  Finally we will use skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..  But this is also the department where the client will be having a little fun.  The client will be having us convert the car to power front disk brakes, installing an aftermarket tilt steering column, replacing the rear end with a 12 bolt posi, upgrading to MSD electronic ignition, switching over to fuel injection and installing a digital dash.

Once the vehicle is repainted, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

This current week Ralph is working on the stages of disassembly and stripping of the paint.

Stripping the paint

Stripping the paint

Disassembly and stripping

Removing the front end

Stripping the drivers fender and door

Disassembling the rear end

Front end apart

Justin has installed a new deck lid emblem today, repainted the front grill emblem and is starting the final assembly of the interior.

You can find past postings on this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1967 Dodge Charger

Passenger door panel installed

Drivers door panel installed

Center grill emblem repainted

New center deck lid medallion installed

Reassembling the interior

For this vehicle we are:

-Disassembling the body
-Stripping the paint
-Repairing the minor dents and rust around the vehicle
-Repainting the vehicle
- Replacing the vinyl top
- Reassembling the vehicle.

We will possibly also be restoring the interior.

Today the the vehicle is coming out of the paint booth and Justin is starting to reassemble

In the booth

Hood prepped for paint

Extensions and trim prepped for paint

Trunk prepped for paint

Setting up the panels for paint

Installing the doors

Panels painted

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Within the last week we have been install all the external accessories for the engine and installing the new factory wiring harness.

Also, Dan is prepping and painting the dash before reinstall.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Plymouth Roadunner

New battery tray installed

Prepping the dash for paint

Installing the dash wiring

Installing the dash wiring harness

Installing the firewall wiring

-Full restoration with upgrades of one of the vehicle in the tour center here in Louis
-Partial restoration (mainly body and paint) of their other tour center vehicle
-Two ground up kit builds for two different distributors.  These are pretty neat for several reasons.  We custom made the mold for the body here in house.  From there we had a custom chassis made for each vehicle.  Each chassis featured a mustang two front end, disk brakes and power steering.  The vehicles were powered by 2.3L four cylinder.
-Finally we have the one that is here in our shop now: an original 1929 Ford Model A with a Stake bed.

This distributor is having us restore this vehicle and mock it up to look like the tour center/kit cars that we have done for AB in the past.

We will be:

-Blasting the bed frame
-Replacing the wood for the bed floor
-Building a new stake bed
-Repainting the vehicle in red/black with AB logo on the door
-Restoring the interior

This last week we have been working on fitting the body together with the new sheet metal:

Fitting the new hood

Installing front sheet metal

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

This last week Ralph wrapped up the body work and Dan primed the vehicle.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

In primer

Final assembly items are getting installed today by Justin.

Installing upper quarter trim

Installing rear bumper

Installing rocker trim

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Within the last week we have been cutting in the panels and working on painting and installing the engine.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Plymouth Roadunner

Installing the rebuilt engine

Painting the engine

Painting the door jambs

Painting the underside of the hood

Two tone door jamb

Inside of doors two toned

Painted A Pillars

For this restoration we are only doing the body, paint and interior.   Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Ralph stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Ralph cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today we replacing The drivers quarter panel with a pre fabricated patch.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Mach 1

Prepping for new quarter panel

Cutting out old quarter panel

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

Today the specific task that Dan is working on is rebuilding the front differential.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1974 Toyota FJ40

Rebuilding front differential

Restored Rear End

Rebuilding front axles

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicles panels and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  The final step of the body will be to remove every component off the body and put the bare shell up on the rotisserie.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today we are at the stage of working getting the body mounted on the rotisserie

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1971 Ford Torino GT Convertible

On rotisserie

Getting ready to mount rear of vehicle to rotisserie

Bracing door openings

On Rotisserie

Mounting front end on rotisserie

Turned on side on rotisserie

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunity circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Our fist step was to finish assembling the mechanical systems on the frame.  Next we bought a new metal body and paint the floor and undercoat the vehicle.  Now that the body is bolted back on the frame Bryan is working on assembling the steering, suspension and installing the wiring harness.  Bryan has also been working on repairing and painting the heater box.

Wiring install

Test fitting seats

To us the definition of a custom street rod is a classic car that has been modified and upgraded to go faster and perform better.

For this Cuda we went all out.  The customization of this vehicle starts at the front with a one off grill and goes all the way back with a frenched bumper and custom tail pan with every part upgraded in between.

Below is a quick list of the upgrades to this vehicle:

- Custom built full frame will tube reinforcements
- Dana 60 full floating rear end
- Dutchman Axles
- Wilwood disk brakes
- Hothkis tubular suspension
- Custom hood raised to clear the engine
- 900 hp big block hemi
- Custom built automatic tranny with paddle shift
- Electric master/booster
- Shaved doors and trunk
- Custom built floor
- Dash chopped and moved forward to give more interior space
- Custom two tone paint job
- Smoothed front inner fenders and firewall
- Custom built headers and exhaust
- 20″ Carbon fiber wheels
- Digital gauges
- Custom waterfall center console

Over the last couple of days we have been undercoating the vehicle and painting the engine and transmission.

Click below to see the past updates on this vehicle:

1973 Plymouth Barracuda

Engine painted

Engine and tranny in booth for paint

Engine getting painted

Prepping engine for paint

Picture from back of vehicle undercoated

Picture of front of car with undercoat

Transmission Painted

The first step of this restoration is the body and and paint.  For this Mike started out with complete disassembly of the vehicle.  Removing all trim, bumpers, lights, glass, door, weatherstripping, etc.  We do this to make sure that our client gets a very complete paint job and we miss no area.  After that Mike stripped the paint off the vehicle and went to bare metal.  This assures that there is no hidden rust in the vehicle that could pop up later.  Once the vehicle was to bare metal Mike cut out any rusted areas and replaced it with good metal.  After that we etched and sealed the vehicle.  Finally we are using skim coats of fiberglass filler around the vehicle to smooth our repairs out.

We are also mechanically restoring this car.  A rebuilt engine and transmission.  Rewiring the vehicle.  Installing new steering suspension and brakes.  New fuel lines, brake lines, etc..

Once the vehicle is painting back to the original color, using our house brand of Spies Hecker paint we will install a fresh new interior and assemble the body.

Today we are at the stage of working on the final areas of smoothing out the body.

To see past post on this vehicle check the link below:

1969 Plymouth Roadunner

Smoothing out the Drivers Quarter

Smoothing out the quarters

Smoothing out the body

To us the definition of a custom street rod is a classic car that has been modified and upgraded to go faster and perform better.

For this Cuda we went all out.  The customization of this vehicle starts at the front with a one off grill and goes all the way back with a frenched bumper and custom tail pan with every part upgraded in between.

Below is a quick list of the upgrades to this vehicle:

- Custom built full frame will tube reinforcements
- Dana 60 full floating rear end
- Dutchman Axles
- Wilwood disk brakes
- Hothkis tubular suspension
- Custom hood raised to clear the engine
- 900 hp big block hemi
- Custom built automatic tranny with paddle shift
- Electric master/booster
- Shaved doors and trunk
- Custom built floor
- Dash chopped and moved forward to give more interior space
- Custom two tone paint job
- Smoothed front inner fenders and firewall
- Custom built headers and exhaust
- 20″ Carbon fiber wheels
- Digital gauges
- Custom waterfall center console

Today we are getting ready to undercoat the vehicle.

Click below to see the past updates on this vehicle:

1973 Plymouth Barracuda

Undercoating the front fenders

Undercoating the front fender wells

Undercoating the body

For this vehicle we are:

-Rebuilding the engine, which will be rebuilt to original manufacture specifications
-Replacing the water pump
-Replacing the motor mounts
-Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
- Resealing the transmission and rear end
- Replacing all the brake components front and back
- Rebuilding the front differential

Today the specific task that Dan is working on is the rear end and rear brakes.

New rear brakes

Rebuilding the rear end

Pulling the rear end for rebuild

We are restoring this Willys to the original military specifications that it came in.  With original OS flat green paint, all NOS equipment and a new steel body.  We received this Jeep from a lady who’s husband and his friend had been working on restoring it for several years.  Due to some unfortunity circumstances the project was not able to be completed.  The vehicle has a lot of sentimental value to the family who plans to pass it down to the daughters.  When we got the vehicle most of the major mechanical systems like the engine, tranny, brakes and suspension had already been rebuilt.  It was in pieces though and missing the body.

Our fist step was to finish assembling the mechanical systems on the frame.  Next we bought a new metal body and paint the floor and undercoat the vehicle.  Now that the body is bolted back on the frame Bryan is working on assembling the steering, suspension and installing the wiring harness.  Bryan has also been working on repairing and painting the heater box.

To see post past on this vehicle click the link below:

1958 Jeep Willys CJ5

Installing pedals and steering

Installing the fuel tank

Restoring the heater box

To us the definition of a custom street rod is a classic car that has been modified and upgraded to go faster and perform better.

For this Cuda we went all out.  The customization of this vehicle starts at the front with a one off grill and goes all the way back with a frenched bumper and custom tail pan with every part upgraded in between.

Below is a quick list of the upgrades to this vehicle:

- Custom built full frame will tube reinforcements
- Dana 60 full floating rear end
- Dutchman Axles
- Wilwood disk brakes
- Hothkis tubular suspension
- Custom hood raised to clear the engine
- 900 hp big block hemi
- Custom built automatic tranny with paddle shift
- Electric master/booster
- Shaved doors and trunk
- Custom built floor
- Dash chopped and moved forward to give more interior space
- Custom two tone paint job
- Smoothed front inner fenders and firewall
- Custom built headers and exhaust
- 20″ Carbon fiber wheels
- Digital gauges
- Custom waterfall center console

Today we are getting ready to undercoat the vehicle.

Click below to see the past updates on this vehicle:

1973 Plymouth Barracuda

Ready to undercoat

Front Fender

For this 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Precision Restorations is installing an upgraded suspension system in the front and back.  We only use the highest grade of parts for our clients and this vehicle is no exception.  For the front of the vehicle we installed Global West upper and lower tubular control arms and QA1 coilover shocks. This will stiffen up the front of the vehicle and give the Camaro much better control around corners and at high speeds.  For the rear of the vehicle we chose a Martz custom built 4 link and a narrowed 12 bolt rear end.  These upgrades will allow the client to fit a 275 tire in the rear of the vehicle.  At this point the narrowed rear end is back up under the vehicle and painted and the rear four link suspension is nearly set up

3/4 shot

Custom Interior

383 Small Block

In the pictures below you can see The new covers coming together for the front and rear seats.

To see past post on this vehicle click the link below:

http://www.precisioncarrestoration.com/?s=1963+Lincoln

Split bench backs

Embroidered lincoln logo

Split Bench Bottom

We are now just working on all the final assembly items for the vehicle.

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

Today Bryan is working reinstalling the rear end and springs:

To us the definition of a custom street rod is a classic car that has been modified and upgraded to go faster and perform better.

For this Cuda we went all out.  The customization of this vehicle starts at the front with a one off grill and goes all the way back with a frenched bumper and custom tail pan with every part upgraded in between.

Below is a quick list of the upgrades to this vehicle:

- Custom built full frame will tube reinforcements
- Dana 60 full floating rear end
- Dutchman Axles
- Wilwood disk brakes
- Hothkis tubular suspension
- Custom hood raised to clear the engine
- 900 hp big block hemi
- Custom built automatic tranny with paddle shift
- Electric master/booster
- Shaved doors and trunk
- Custom built floor
- Dash chopped and moved forward to give more interior space
- Custom two tone paint job
- Smoothed front inner fenders and firewall
- Custom built headers and exhaust
- 20" Carbon fiber wheels
- Digital gauges
- Custom waterfall center console

I could go on and on, but you will just have to keep watching to see how this vehicle develops 

But when our client decided to take on this endevor he wanted to make sure that he added a few upgrades of his own decision.  So for the 340 engine we added upgraded comp cams, edelbrock aluminum heads, and an edelbrock intake and carburetor.

With all this power we decided to upgrade the braking system.  We installed a dual master cylinder with a power brake booster.  We also installed drilled and slotted front disk.

Finally to make it easier for our client to get around we installed a power steering system out of another duster that came with the system from the factory.

And since our client will be spending all his time in the car we installed new carpet, seat covers and an upgraded stereo system.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

1970 Plymouth Duster

This vehicle came to us with a diesel, which was not to much fun to drive.  Our client is planning on driving this car back and forth to work every day so he asked us to upgrade the vehicle with a more user friendly setup.  We chose a 2.2 Liter out of Chevy S10, this will allow for better everyday driveablity with the fuel injection and higher horsepower.

Besides the upgrades to the mechanical systems, we completely restored the body and paint for the vehicle.  It got stripped down with 80 grit then etched and sealed.  Once the body was sealed Ralph cut out and repaired all the rusted areas with new sheet metal and waterproof fiberglass filler.  Once the body was straight and rust free Dan primed it and the block sanded it. Following that Dan mixed up a high gloss black paint from Spies Hecker.

Finally, we installed a new carpet, stiched up new black leather seat covers and made a new front for the dash.

You can see past post for this vehicle by clicking the link below:

1975 Austin FX4

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

Today Bryan has been working on fabricating new fuel tank straps, installing the fuel tank and restoring the rear end.

For this 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Precision Restorations is installing an upgraded suspension system in the front and back.  We only use the highest grade of parts for our clients and this vehicle is no exception.  For the front of the vehicle we installed Global West upper and lower tubular control arms and QA1 coilover shocks. This will stiffen up the front of the vehicle and give the Camaro much better control around corners and at high speeds.  For the rear of the vehicle we chose a Martz custom built 4 link and a narrowed 12 bolt rear end.  These upgrades will allow the client to fit a 275 tire in the rear of the vehicle.  At this point the narrowed rear end is back up under the vehicle and painted and the rear four link suspension is nearly set up.

To see past post of this vehicle click the below link:

http://www.precisioncarrestoration.com/?s=1972+dodge+demon

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

http://www.precisioncarrestoration.com/?s=1971+ford+torino

We stripped the original paint down to bare metal and began restoring the body of this Nash.  Once repaired we sealed it with a high grade primer.  Dan then block sanded the body to make sure that the body was laser straight.  Now back in 1948 these Nashs could come with a two tone paint job and our client has opted to go with a custom paint combination of green and cream.  These color will carry over from the exterior of the vehicle to the inside window trim and dash. And now that the clear coat has been applied this vehicle has been transfromed. The paint of choice for our restoration facility is Spies Hecker, a German based paint company.  We find that their paint has a better finish and holds up longer than any of the other brands out there.  They also offer a lifetime warranty on their product.

To see past updates on this vehicle click the link below:

http://www.precisioncarrestoration.com/?s=1968+checker

We stripped the original paint down to bare metal and began restoring the body of this Nash.  Once repaired we sealed it with a high grade primer.  Dan then block sanded the body to make sure that the body was laser straight.  Now back in 1948 these Nashs could come with a two tone paint job and our client has opted to go with a custom paint combination of green and cream.  These color will carry over from the exterior of the vehicle to the inside window trim and dash.  The paint of choice for our restoration facility is Spies Hecker, a German based paint company.  We find that their paint has a better finish and holds up longer than any of the other brands out there.  They also offer a lifetime warranty on their product.

To see past post on this project click the link below:

1948 Nash Ambassador

Even all-original survivor cars like this 1969 Mach can require quite a bit of bodywork. It has been stripped to bare metal using a dual-action sander and 80-grit sandpaper. While stripping a car to bare metal isn’t mandatory, it helps reveal subtle body defects that might otherwise go unnoticed. It turns out that just about every panel on the Mach 1 has some rust or dents that need repair. A couple of the biggest problem area on this car were the rear quarter panels. To fix it, Precision Restorations will cut out the old quarter panels and weld in a new skin.  Once the skin is welded in place the welds will be ground down and then everything will be smoothed out with a coat of waterproof filler.

For this 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Precision Restorations is installing an upgraded suspension system in the front and back.  We only use the highest grade of parts for our clients and this vehicle is no exception.  For the front of the vehicle we installed Global West upper and lower tubular control arms and QA1 coilover shocks. This will stiffen up the front of the vehicle and give the Camaro much better control around corners and at high speeds.  For the rear of the vehicle we chose a Martz custom built 4 link and a narrowed 12 bolt rear end.  These upgrades will allow the client to fit a 275 tire in the rear of the vehicle.

Now that we have stripped the paint, patched in new metal where the major rust was and etched the vehicle, Mike can start body working the rough areas.  We will smooth this vehicle out with multiple tools and techniques.  Including hammer and dolly, stud pullers and waterproof filler.  When completing a car restoration attention to detail is the most important theme to follow.

Now when this vehicle came in to us it was in rough shape.  The body was rotten, the interior was deteriorating and pretty much every mechanical system needed rebuilding.  Actually the door post of this vehicle were filled with insulation as a form of repair.  To this point we have rebuilt almost the entire body with the help of 4 used door post.  We have put almost 400 hours into the body restoration portion of this build.  We have also rebuilt the engine and tranny, added an edelbrock intake and carburetor and in the pictures below we are rebuilding the front end suspension and steering systems.

Rebuilding of the steering and front suspension

Body working the hood

New ball joints

Body working the fender

New end links and springs

The vehicle is now really coming together and we are down to a few of the final items such as custom floor mats that have the Charger logo embroidered on them.  We expect this vehicle to be back on the road within the next month.

Custom Charger Floor Matt

In the pictures below you can see where the old top has been removed in preparation for the new cloth top.  We have also started to cut out all the patterns in the black leather that will be needed for the seats.  There is also a picture of one of the pieces of restored stainless.

Patterns cut out for the black parts of the seats

Piece of the restored stainless

Removing the old convertible top

Removing the old convertible top

Tearing down the old seat

New leather

Good look at the contrast between the new black and white leather

Old seat before tear down

Lot of custom cut patterns for the new seats

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